In the photo, the lofting is being used to get out and then verify the sternpost and knee. Once the backbone is completed, it will be used to get out the moulds as well (see below).
This lofting is a blueline copy of our Mylar original and is printed on 24# paper. It is a single sheet and includes profile, halfbreadth, and body plan views as well as her transom expansion. 10'-6" too small for your purposes? The lofting is still useful for everything except for the overall length of her plank keel–for those sticklers among you, yes the inboard transom expansion shape shown would be a trifle large. Not to worry, just build it the size shown, and trim away the excess as you line off the hull to receive the planking. If you want a 12-footer, for example, just increase her mould spacing by a factor of 1.14 and she becomes a 12-footer using the very same offsets. The 12 is even more able than the 10'-6" boat, and costs very nearly the same to build.
This is the mould for station 2, and like the sternpost, it is gotten out directly from the lofting. The Rhodes Wherry can be built rightside up or upside down. This one was to be built upside down, so the cross spall is positioned to be against the building platform. Was she to be built upright, the cross spall would have been aligned with the sheer.
Before someone asks, yes, you need plans AND a lofting. The plans provide the offsets, construction details, the sail plan and everything that goes with it, all drawn to scale. The lofting provides line information and it’s drawn full size. For a new design, they verify the lines, but this one has been built so many times by so many people, that’s not a concern. However, it will give you the full size backbone details, including the expansion of the transom, plank keel details, and stem and sternpost. You can scale all of that up from the plans, or avail yourself of a lofting that is already completed.